Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Santiago Day 2 - Always a Pilgrim

Leischen did not have to wake up at 6:00 this morning, but she did have a breakfast date with her Danish friends.  She toured around the city and took a ton of pictures ( all with the "other" camera)


We toured the cathedral today and it was crazy with people.  We went to mass for the second time and there were over 1500 people in attendance. We watched them swing this huge incense burner over the crowd and it covers all the pilgrims with the smell of incense.    Then we walked around the city and ate.   It was fun to watch all the people we have walked the trail with as they arrive into the city.  The coolist part was to be a part of the city and share their entrance with them.  Tomorrow there will be a whole new group and I will know no one.   It has been amazing to be here.   I have made so many friends.  It is such a gift to share this experience with them.

I feel so incredibly blessed.  This has been such a trip full of "hard things to do", but also so many new experiences, sights and new friends to share it with.  I came by myself, but the Lord provided all the friends I needed to share it with.  

 It has also been a lesson on "when there is no stuff" what is it that really matters to you? 

I have learned how much I love people, and how well God really does provide.   I feel so full.


I am having dinner with friends for the last time tonight  and then I am taking the night train to Madrid.   I have a bunk so I can at least sleep on the way.   I don't have to pay for a hotel room, but at least I can lay down between the two cities.  (the internet says it is about 5.5 hours by train)


I think Leischen will  forever be a pilgrim.   It is an experience that she will never forget, but will always carry in her heart.  As she leaves Santiago and finds her way to the city where she will fly home, the reality of her "other" life will start calling.    It is always fun to see your children so happy.   She says she feels full.    I am full because she is so happy.

Monday, July 28, 2014

Santiago - I Made It

The Day has finally come.   780 kilometers are behind me and I am standing at the front of this beautiful Cathedral ( Which is covered in scaffolding as they repair the front of it).
We went to the Pilgrims Mass at Noon, and I was able to receive my certificate for 780 kilometers.  It was very exciting and emotional.   I did it!!!




 I talked to Leischen later in the day and asked if she had started being a tourist yet.   She said that she didn't have time yet but  - She did seal up all her hiking clothes.. she was done with those for the rest of the trip.   She had gotten her train ticket to Madrid for later this week and had gone to the church of St. Francis for a special certificate for pilgrims that is only available this year.   She then went off to have drinks with friends and said hello to the other pilgrims she knew.   
It was a fun night.  You get to be reunited with all the people you have traveled with.
Comments:

Gretchen - Congratulations Leischen





































































Sunday, July 27, 2014

Lacacolla

Leischen is so close now.   She is only a couple hours from Santiago and plans on walking into town before the Pilgrim service at noon.    She walked 30 kilometers today and said that she actually could have gone all the way, but thought how nice it would be to walk in to town and straight to the Cathedral  just before the ceremony.   She is in a hotel tonight because the Albergue's this close to the finish line are very, very large. (average about 400 beds each).  


We skyped for only a short time this morning.    I think Leischen had time, but we were expecting guests for Brunch after church and were not quite ready yet.    She was waiting for Nancy to arrive and they were planning on sharing a hotel room.   Nancy is a late riser, so they don't normally start on the trail together.


Octopus

Leischen sent this picture of her dinner last night.  
 We had a great dinner last night.  Octopus, a regional delicacy.  It was delicious.   I also learned that paella is different by region here. It is a little more moist than in other regions.   It was quite good.

The Grandfather of my Jersey friends is from this region.   He is along and recommending things that are quite good.   It has been fun to try these new things.



I am looking forward to tomorrow.   It is hard to
Paella 
describe this pilgrimage.   It is different for each person who makes this walk, and very hard to put into words.  It certainly is something I will never forget.

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Arzua

We only have 39 kilometers to go!!
  
We are going to do a long day tomorrow of 30 kilometers.  If we do that we will only have to walk 10 km into Santiago on Monday.    The Pilgrims ceremony is at noon, and we don't want to be late or  too tired when we get there.
















This is a picture taken by my Danish friends.   It seems that I am always the one serving meals.   Mom says that it is a holdover from my Applebee Days.   I say that "a good person takes care of people".







As you can see we have been walking through a lot of farm ground here.   It is much different from the wheat farming.   Here there are many cattle and the hills roll with fields and trees.













There were not a lot of pictures of the city of Arzua, but there were about 100 shots of cheese.   There were quite a few of cattle, and a lot of pictures of melted cheese on assorted foods beautifully displayed.

It looks like a beautifully lined path that Leischen is walking on.





Friday, July 25, 2014

San Xulian

I am in San Xulian.  It is a small town outside of Palas del Rey.  All the tour groups stop in Palas Del Rey so we went 3 kms outside.  It is a quiet little village and there are no groups staying here.   The Albergue is very small with only 12 beds ... but all my camino friends ended up thinking the same thing and here we all are.  It is amazing how it all turned out.  Nancy from Portland, The Danes the Hungarians and my two new American friends from Jersey, also Lois from Germany.



The crowds who have joined this journey are just incredible right now.  There are two groups of 150 participants each, all walking the camino with us today.   One group is all adults and one is all children.   Add to that the many many school groups as well and small groups of adults.   The traffic is insane.   I like to believe that it is God reminding me that the real world is soon coming back  and I will have to keep my Camino in my heart even when the outside world is crazy around me.   I can hardly believe I only have 69 kilometers to go.  I will be there in two and a half days.  The time is going so quickly now, but it wasn't always that way during the wheat field days.




This little town also has a monastery.  I thought the pictures of the crusades on the walls quite interesting.   It really is small and the pictures don't share a lot.








Leischen is totally missing the movement of farm animals on this trip.   This town also uses the street to take their cattle to market.     I am going to look through her camera shots, but she has never mentioned any of these farm events as she has traveled across Spain.

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Portomarin and less than 100km to go!

I am now in Portomarin.  It is crazy full of pilgrims.  So many young Spanish kids.   The place is nuts.

With all the new people have you seen many of your camino trail friends?

Nancy met me when she got to town three hours after I arrived.   I spent the day with a nice couple of 26 year olds from New Jersey.  They were both music majors.   A really nice couple.  I also ran into my priest friend,Chema, and my German friend Lois.

I got the best compliment from my German friend, Otmar.  He said " Leischen, you are friends with everyone on Camino"  I was very pleased.  It is all possible by walking with many people on the road.  Talking for awhile and then moving on at your own pace. 

How are you doing with all the extra people on the road?  More Housing? more variety in food?

There is more variety in housing but we were turned down at 4 arbergues before we found one to stay in for the night.

Do you have to leave earlier to arrive earlier in the next village to get a room?

I am not getting up earlier.   I am just seeing what I can find and if I run into too big a problem, I am getting a hotel room.  People are leaving the albergue at 4:00 a.m.   It is craziness here.  The guide book says you have to have a sense of "detatched compassion" from here on out.

Well, I don't know about that... but I can see the area is very pretty.



Wednesday, July 23, 2014

San Mamed del Camino


I made it to San Mamed del Camino. It is the last town before before Sarria.  The camino is going to change drastically tomorrow as Sarria is the last town to start in and still earn a Compostela  (Certificate of walking the Camino)  It becomes more of a tourist thing and large groups come in and talk loudly on their cellphones and things.  The group I am traveling with today all wanted one last day of "real" camino before the craziness starts in just 4 kilometers.   This is a nice place with another communal meal.   I will enjoy spending the evening with these new friends.

Comments:

Mike - Tell her to walk slower. I love reading these each day!


Tuesday, July 22, 2014

O'Cebreiro


No Texting today so 
messages are short.

e-mail note from this morning:

It was a great walk today. The village of  O'Cebreiro is up a very beautiful mountain. And!  I felt really good today. My feet cooperated and the weather was hot but not so much that it would kill me. Such beautiful views!!!















Try as I might, the next picture of Leischen and the beautiful view is just not in focus.   It is better in small format.   I can tell she is at a very high elevation and how I wish I could make it a better picture.







It is a beautiful area for walking.  I don't know that this up hill - down hill thing is any easier than the doldrums of flat wheat fields. 
















I am pretty sure that this statue indicates that there is normally a lot of wind in this area.   


























The architecture of this town certainly looks interesting.   Leischen did say in her e-mail that her dinner meal was in one of these mushroom types of buildings.    One picture shows a huge John Deere Tractor parked next to one.   That is a sight.

There is a lot of Roman Catholic history in this town. It is suppose to be a "must see" for the Camino Pilgrim.

We had dinner tonight in one of these mushroom type buildings.   It was a gathering of the original pilgrims.  We will soon have bus loads of tourists coming to join us on the last 100 kilometers.   Thins will change so we will have a dinner together tonight and tomorrow and then who knows.   We each sang our own National Anthems's tonight.   The US was the only one in harmony.  ( You are a music teacher, Leischen, I hope it was  ;-)
I hope that we will be able to text tomorrow.  It is very hard when you are waiting for e-mails back and forth.  How funny that I am complaining about "slow" email service to Spain.  

Comments:

Grandma C What unusual buildings.  The scenery is beautiful and I think  Leischen looks great, looking at her you would not guess  that she has walked over 250 miles.  She looks radiant

Monday, July 21, 2014

Vega de Valcarce - located in the region of El Bierzo


I thought it was time to show another map.   I found this one interesting because it had little blocks by region and by what must be an average day of walking.   Leischen is in the area left of Leon called El Bierzo.  Vega de Valcarce is not listed by name.

You might be interested to know that they have shared statistics of our blog.  It says that our audience of viewers is from around the globe.  Most of the family are getting this by e-mail, so their statistics are not listed, only those who check into the blog itself.:

69 - US
34 - Spain  ( at least 20 from Leischen  is my guess)
4 - Germany
2 - Puerto Rico

70 %  of all those who log in are on iphones or Apple devices.
80%  of those who search for the blog use Safari  ( Apple search).
The blog is viewed approx. 13 times per day over and above the e-mailed copies sent at publication.

It is surprising the information you get with these things.
































I walked through some of the most beautiful vineyards today.  Isn't the light wonderful?

It took me a little more than 8 hours to reach today's goal.   Tomorrow I climb the last mountain into Galicia.  I hope to be in Santiago a week from today.

How is your body holding out?

My right foot is a bit iffy and I think I got a little overheated today.  I am going to take a siesta before I go out and explore the village.

The pilgrims menu was actually quite good tonight.

It is Garlic Fish.(fried with French Fries)  










I see there is another abandoned castle on the hill.

They are everywhere.  Spain was a group of very small countries until not all that long ago.  So there were many many kings and Lords.

When we were in France we could see that the border between the two countries was constantly changing.

They like to argue about it to this day.  The argument was still very present in the Basque Country.   There was graffiti everywhere about it.   I understand it is the same in Galicia.















Sunday, July 20, 2014

Cacabelos

 194.5 kms to go, my goal is in sight and each day the anticipation of making it all the way gets stronger and stronger.

 The weather is much nicer  than yesterday, just a little bit of rain and not so much as to soak my shoes. The road today is much easier walking as well.








Templars Castle:
This is a really cool building on the outside, but the guidebook says that it is not worth the money to go inside.   The Templars are very famous across Spain.  They were soldiers in time of war and they also protected the pilgrims in good times.

Those of us who read Dan Brown & Ken Follett get a little history of the Tempars in their books.  Was it interesting?

My guide book told me not to bother going inside as it was too expensive and doesn't really show much.



Dad and Fred, the wine grapes here are cut off very low and they grow very close to the ground.  Is that a special thing from here?  Why do they do that?   ( Dad doesn't know except that every region has a special way of doing their own crops)

Most of the ones that we have seen have been pruned and staked like they are in Washington. But we are back in the wine region and they were all pruned very close to the ground.   




Food  -  You told us about Fish/chicken.  What about beef?
Beef is very available.  Spaniards are a very into their meat (although pork seems to be the most prevalent). It would be very hard to be a vegetarian on camino although eggs are wildly popular.  Eggs with everything! 

Do you worry about food and refrigeration?  Spain has very good refrigeration but they don't use it for what we would. Milk is not refrigerated in the grocery store, neither are the eggs.  Sandwiches sit out until they are purchased.   But red wine is most often chilled.  


How about Electricity and Computer Internet?

Electricity is everywhere.  Spain is a first world country and there is now wifi in almost every bar/cafe along the route.  We can sit on the street outside the cafe and enjoy a coffee while doing our texting.    With the exception of deep in the mountains or desert. 







We understand that each pilgrim walking the Camino carries a special passport.  Could you tell us about this?

The passport is actually twice as long as this and double sided.  I picked up the passport on my first day at St. Jean Pied de Port. At least once a day I have to have it stamped at an albergue, bar or a church as proof of where I have been and that I have walked at least 100 kilometers of the camino. When I arrive in Santiago de Compostela, I will show my completed passport at the pilgrims office and receive my Compostela or certificate of completion.  I should also get a certificate of distance proving that I have walked 780 kilometers. 


Leischen has been saying that the roads are getting more crowded now because she is getting closer to the 100 km line she spoke of above.   Many people who live in Europe take several years to do the trip and begin and stop along the way.   I spoke to a Seattle woman who only went for the last 100 km of the trip.


Saturday, July 19, 2014

Molinaseca and 218 Kilometers to Go.

 Today I started with a wonderful sunrise.   This is probably the most beautiful sight so far since the Pyrenees mountains.    I was glad to have such a beautiful start  because it was kind of a miserable day walking.   I am happy that the scenery is so lovely because the walking is very slow and hard.  This area is one of the most beautiful areas I have seen on Camino.  Second only to the Pyrenees.


Today I passed Cruz de Ferrol.  This is the place where you leave a stone at the foot of the cross.  It is a famous spot and there are generations of rocks.

You can also see that I am soaking wet, but the Poncho over my backpack has done a good job of keeping everything fairly dry... except my feet.

I forwarded some questions from your Uncle Mike.  It is a good time to share your answers.

How Long do you walk between breaks?
It is a pretty random mileage in between breaks. Most often I stop when a town comes.  On the short side that could be every 3 miles on the Iong side 6 miles. I am walking approximately 25 kilometers a day which is 15 miles.  Some days like today, the terrain is very rocky because I have been going up and down a major mountain.  It has taken me 6 hours to go 9 miles.  It is very hard walking!! And I have stopped very little since I am walking so slowly.



Does she have to find a bush when Mother Nature Calls?

 Yes, there have been many a bush that has come to my rescue and hiking in a skirt has been very helpful for protecting my modesty.  You try and find a place to hide and then see if anyone is coming behind you. 

Leischen found a travel skirt that can be tied into shorts, pants or used as a skirt with hiking shorts. They sound pretty useful.

Does she have enhanced water or does she fill at the local villages?

The water in Spain is very good. I just fill up my reservoir in the evening at the albergue.





I asked Leischen about the food.  She says she likes the Tapas (small plates or finger foods) but what is the food like more specifically?

The food on camino is not often gourmet. So there are a lot of fried foods or Bocadilla (bread with meat on it, a sandwich but not a very tasty one). In the evening they have what is called a pilgrims menu. 3 courses, first one salad or soup or macaroni or potato salad often for the second course it is chicken or pork, fish and usually French fries. Last course is a desert.  I am looking forward to Madrid when the food is a bit more fancy.

Mike's final Question - Would she do it again?

Would I do it again?  Oof. Yes and no. I don't know.  It has been such a rewarding experience and getting to know people from all over the world has been amazing.  I understand how God takes care of his people in a way I could have never imagined.  But, this is very difficult.  It seems like everyone hurts somewhere. It is not a comfortable walk. It hurts at some point every day.  But every day is a blessing from God and I never forget that here.  Just look at what I got to see today!  


Today we are in the sweet little village of Molinaseca.  A tourist town and lots of wealth.  I spent some time in the village.  There is a big wedding tonight.  The town is closed down for it.  They are shooting off fireworks in the middle of the town tonight.

 It is really hard to explain what it feels like to be on camino.  It is one of the most amazing things I have ever done , but it is so damn hard.